Animated Design Shots

Sub-Cut Blouse, Animation:

Funnel Skirt, Exploded View:

Final ADE Designs

AMY - DEAN - EMILY

PROJECTION - FRAGMENTATION - PENETRATION

Tech Pack : In Brief!

The group decision was to develop two garments; A subtraction-cut top in a sheer silk type material to express penetrative light, and the pattern cutting development we'd all trialed. The second garment is a skirt that will evolve from forms of penetration, light or sound, in rigid material. There will be a strong contrast in the silhouettes and fabrics used, but they will together clearly illustrate elements from all 3 paths.

We have been instructed to physically hand in a Tech Pack, including photographic step-by-step instructions, pattern lays, workshops, links etc. Before I posted the final shots I wanted to quickly show us in working!...... Brief, but gives an idea of how we reached the final outcome.

Toile Stage: (skirt)

Using a standard skirt block we proceeded to open the darts from the hip-line. Our final decision was to create one over sized dart per each of the 4 panels.

Toile Stage: (sub-cut top)
The main alterations here were to slightly lengthen the bodice and place the tunnel on the back, plus lower to the hem.

Final Garment Stage: (+pattern pieces)

 Made in white Buckram, a stiff almost canvas material. Will hold structure and compliment the whole theme in colour.

Project A.D.E

As the final stage we were asked to join together with other students on the Innovation module, forming a group of 3. The aim, to combine and develop our ideas to produce one garment. This will test our ability to adapt, work in a team and interpret the ideas of other individuals.

I am working alongside Amy Holden & Emilie Hale. They are both focusing on 'light', though Emilie has homed in on penetrative lighting, whilst Amy is looking at light projection and the way it communicates. Emilie & Amy are considering ladies wear, which poses an interesting challenge to incorporate my mens wear designs. Visit their blogs for more of an insight into the route they've researched:

http://amy-holden.blogspot.com/

http://emiliehale.blogspot.com/

Innovation Design Sheets

From my research & concept development I have compiled the design sheets below. As the brief was to explore Innovation within fashion design my sheets do not form a collection as such. They are all related through Fragmentation, of sound in particular as an inspiration. I perceive the designs as more like highlights/ garment concepts, elements of what could be taken into a collection process. I would love to expand on several ideas but it is not necessary for this module.

 

 

Concepts : Fragmented Resonance

These concept pages summarize my exploration to this point, and my focus going forward. They form the muse to elevate the project into Fashion Innovation Design.

Fragmented Resonance: Visually portraying the projection, effects, perception & processes of sound.

 

 

 

 

Transformation & Reconstruction Cutting

I came across a pattern cutting technique that could help interpret sound forms within a garment; Transformation & Reconstruction cutting. By working onto flat pattern pieces the technique manipulates the fabric to incorporate more of a 3D effect within the detailing. Visit http://www.trpattern.com for more of an insight into what can be achieved. (The English isn't great on the site but everything is documented via video demonstrations in great detail)

The 2 videos below, to me, sum up the theory of TR cutting, plus offer more relevance to my research. ....The 'Vortex' construction in particular!





I feel this technique would involve a fair deal of time, if I was to put to use, although an insight into how to create such profiles is of great use at this stage. Will definitely be incorporating in my design!!

Literal Thoughts

Whilst looking into more obvious visual sound possibilities I compiled several random doodles, which are catalogued below. Even from documenting such rough work, elements can be lifted, plus it shows what has caught my eye!

 

Architectural Sound

I specifically homed in on 2 designers who's structural creations are continuously inspired by sound; Anish Kapoor (UK) & Maya Lin (USA). Their manipulation of materials and space could be very influential when drawing up concepts.

'Melancholia' MAC Grand Hornu, Belgium 2004, Anish Kapoor 

 

The reason I have singled out the piece above is because it was constructed in fabric. The paneling and overall lines of the structure help take into consideration how such forms can be assembled. Visit Kapoor's site to see more innovative works: http://www.anishkapoor.com/works/gallery/index.htm 

 

Maya Lin: 'Above and Below' 2007 (left), 'Topologies' 1997 (right)

 

Maya Lin: 'What Is Missing?' Exhibit,

 

http://www.mayalin.com/ 

Again the use of Art & Architecture successfully portrays elements of sound; considering projection, manipulation, frequencies & aerodynamics. Endless interpretations of contour and silhouette lend themselves to fashion design. ...Combined with fragmentation should assist me in developing a unique conceptual output.

Visual Sound

Due to time restrictions, and concerns of possibly losing the concept through a more abstract route, I decided to also take a more literal perspective of fragmenting sound. Looking into frequencies, projection and form. Thus giving me ideas to support my abstract work and expand my thought process when considering garment shape, construction & fabric at the design stage.

 

Even waves & diagrams like the above immediately suggest forms to consider!

Ebisu Art Museum Exhibit (2007), Styrofoam beads reacting to sound
With more time it would be great to develop this idea within fashion.


The following 2 videos also prompt texture & fabric inspiration....
(ignore the strange religious chat!?)



'What Sound Looks LIke' (A vibrated layer of cornstarch in water)


'Sound Vibration Creates Form', David Icke

Pen-to-Sound : 3

Track: Intergalactic, The Beastie Boys:



Images lifted from the 3rd experiment are more geometric/ blunt, reflecting the more punchy, erratic, & electronic sound. Once again I have briefly used different treatments in photoshop to possibly reinforce the emotions captured. Attempting to break up the doodles to show specific areas of the music. (These are very rough studies that I plan to evolve with more substance!)

 

 

 

Pen-to-Sound : 2

Example 2 uses a more emotional, slower tempo track 'Mathematics/The Same God' by Cherry Ghost. Results below do encourage differences:



Images drawn from experiment:

 

 

 

 

Unsure whether certain elements are too abstract to utilize within my design, yet reinforced by some research on sound technology and possible fabrics, there is definitely something here worth expanding on!

Pen-to-Sound : Experiment

From what I've seen so far, I thought it would be worth simply experimenting with music and drawing. The idea was to provoke different emotions that are spontaneously displayed on paper. From there I can catalogue the results, overlaying and dissecting to form a series of interesting profiles.

I quickly selected 3 tracks from various genres, looking for contrasting results.

Pen-to-Sound No.1, Radar Detector, Darwin Deez



Basic image results:

Chromo-Graphic Experiment

An East London based street artist/ illusionist Shawn Davey documented the results of one of his piece's in a very subtle, successful way. Recording the reaction of ink on paper being transferred through 500 sheets, when immersed in water, creates a visual art sequence in itself. Scanning each sheet individually gave him 500 single frames to generate his title film.

Shawn Davey, Serpentine Gallery Experiment Marathon DVD Title Sequence:

 

I am keen to fragment and document the research and experiment processes in such a way as shown above. 

Formed : pixel sketch

The visual sketch I compiled below is taken from another module but works on the same principles as what I seem to be focusing on. By arranging a series of stills it simply portrays the pixel disintegration of an image in reverse. ...I may even take this practice further, pausing and overlaying sound sketches from an animated sequence to create different shapes.

Sound Manipulation : David Lynch

A master of his craft, David Lynch has manipulated sound through film for decades. The scene below is a perfect example of how simple audio can be creatively broken down and reformed.

Twin Peaks, Cooper's Dream:



This inspires me to distort, reverse & regurgitate my visuals to deliver different possible outcomes.

Syncopation : The Optical Score

Many art forms are inspired or directly created from sound. Investigating visual sound was very interesting, fueling many ideas to take forward.

The Grim Museum, Berlin exhibits a variety of performing arts. Currently showing D12/ Syncopation, where work is brought together to explore the intersection between art and music, inspired by the artists interpretation of sound & music in a visual/ narrative context.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/47487356@N08/sets/72157625230747406/show/

Clips from exhibition:

 

Peoples presentation of segmented sound draws up many abstract shapes that can be manipulated going forward. Capturing movement in reaction to sound may offer even more scope when developing designs!?

When visiting London Fashion Week this year I picked up a postcard from a Newgen designer Mary Katrantzou. Although her inspiration for the piece below was 'hyper-real rendering & an icon of luxury', I immediately related the image to sound. The strong graphical contrasts and colours, to me, symbolize a compilation of sounds & emotions; An optical score of music.

http://www.marykatrantzou.com/

I plan to carry out an experiment of spontaneous sketches/ reactions to a selection of varying music tracks.

Literal AR : Michael Kampe

Love the work of Michael Kampe!; An up & coming designer from The Antwerp Royal Academy, Berlin. His incorporation of innovative fabric and print techniques express his interpretation of '3D' in a bold manner. Kampe's 'Exploded View' Collection physically dissects and expands the initial silhouettes. Again visually breaking down, or in this case extending, the design process. In essence it offers a literal interpretation to Augmented Reality.

Images from Michael Kampe's Exploded View Collection:

 

 

 

 I would like to look into ways of depicting sound & movement in such a fragmented approach.