Collections

The final task was to compile two 8-piece collections that encapsulate the whole project, epitomized by 'Erratic Emotions' here they are;

Design

The design stage had to include a substantial amount of designs for both women & men. Taking into account fabrics, which must incorporate knit consideration, and print possibilities. Again, several examples of design sheets are below:

MEN's;

WOMEN's;

Summary

From that point I decided to summarize my research to help focus the design process:

Concept

As a starting point we were shown two contrasting feature films; 'Breathless' Jean-Luc Godard, 1960 (The first in French New Wave cinematography), and 'The Birds' Alfred Hitchcock 1963 (A classic muted technicolour Hollywood production). Both films were to be studied, extracting relevant details to build upon, taking forward into a collection format. Below is a glimpse of my reseearch.

After evaluating the two films, individually and in comparison, I decided to utilize both films but for different aspects. My main theme/ spine of the Collection is a specific focus on Patricia, the main female subject in ‘Breathless’. The complexity of her character offers great depth & scope to develop from. Her traits are expressed in many ways throughout the production of Breathless and will also be documented & explored. To support these studies I have made a continuous decision to use ‘The Bird’s’ in conjunction, for colour, texture & print references....... with relevance.

NEW BRIEF

On the back of completing the Innovation project we were set a new brief to explore conceptual processes as a pathway to fashion design solutions. The module was a physical hand-in but I have briefly documented examples of my approach & outcomes on the concept-dean blog.

Animated Design Shots

Sub-Cut Blouse, Animation:

Funnel Skirt, Exploded View:

Final ADE Designs

AMY - DEAN - EMILY

PROJECTION - FRAGMENTATION - PENETRATION

Tech Pack : In Brief!

The group decision was to develop two garments; A subtraction-cut top in a sheer silk type material to express penetrative light, and the pattern cutting development we'd all trialed. The second garment is a skirt that will evolve from forms of penetration, light or sound, in rigid material. There will be a strong contrast in the silhouettes and fabrics used, but they will together clearly illustrate elements from all 3 paths.

We have been instructed to physically hand in a Tech Pack, including photographic step-by-step instructions, pattern lays, workshops, links etc. Before I posted the final shots I wanted to quickly show us in working!...... Brief, but gives an idea of how we reached the final outcome.

Toile Stage: (skirt)

Using a standard skirt block we proceeded to open the darts from the hip-line. Our final decision was to create one over sized dart per each of the 4 panels.

Toile Stage: (sub-cut top)
The main alterations here were to slightly lengthen the bodice and place the tunnel on the back, plus lower to the hem.

Final Garment Stage: (+pattern pieces)

 Made in white Buckram, a stiff almost canvas material. Will hold structure and compliment the whole theme in colour.

Project A.D.E

As the final stage we were asked to join together with other students on the Innovation module, forming a group of 3. The aim, to combine and develop our ideas to produce one garment. This will test our ability to adapt, work in a team and interpret the ideas of other individuals.

I am working alongside Amy Holden & Emilie Hale. They are both focusing on 'light', though Emilie has homed in on penetrative lighting, whilst Amy is looking at light projection and the way it communicates. Emilie & Amy are considering ladies wear, which poses an interesting challenge to incorporate my mens wear designs. Visit their blogs for more of an insight into the route they've researched:

http://amy-holden.blogspot.com/

http://emiliehale.blogspot.com/

Innovation Design Sheets

From my research & concept development I have compiled the design sheets below. As the brief was to explore Innovation within fashion design my sheets do not form a collection as such. They are all related through Fragmentation, of sound in particular as an inspiration. I perceive the designs as more like highlights/ garment concepts, elements of what could be taken into a collection process. I would love to expand on several ideas but it is not necessary for this module.

 

 

Concepts : Fragmented Resonance

These concept pages summarize my exploration to this point, and my focus going forward. They form the muse to elevate the project into Fashion Innovation Design.

Fragmented Resonance: Visually portraying the projection, effects, perception & processes of sound.

 

 

 

 

Transformation & Reconstruction Cutting

I came across a pattern cutting technique that could help interpret sound forms within a garment; Transformation & Reconstruction cutting. By working onto flat pattern pieces the technique manipulates the fabric to incorporate more of a 3D effect within the detailing. Visit http://www.trpattern.com for more of an insight into what can be achieved. (The English isn't great on the site but everything is documented via video demonstrations in great detail)

The 2 videos below, to me, sum up the theory of TR cutting, plus offer more relevance to my research. ....The 'Vortex' construction in particular!





I feel this technique would involve a fair deal of time, if I was to put to use, although an insight into how to create such profiles is of great use at this stage. Will definitely be incorporating in my design!!

Literal Thoughts

Whilst looking into more obvious visual sound possibilities I compiled several random doodles, which are catalogued below. Even from documenting such rough work, elements can be lifted, plus it shows what has caught my eye!

 

Architectural Sound

I specifically homed in on 2 designers who's structural creations are continuously inspired by sound; Anish Kapoor (UK) & Maya Lin (USA). Their manipulation of materials and space could be very influential when drawing up concepts.

'Melancholia' MAC Grand Hornu, Belgium 2004, Anish Kapoor 

 

The reason I have singled out the piece above is because it was constructed in fabric. The paneling and overall lines of the structure help take into consideration how such forms can be assembled. Visit Kapoor's site to see more innovative works: http://www.anishkapoor.com/works/gallery/index.htm 

 

Maya Lin: 'Above and Below' 2007 (left), 'Topologies' 1997 (right)

 

Maya Lin: 'What Is Missing?' Exhibit,

 

http://www.mayalin.com/ 

Again the use of Art & Architecture successfully portrays elements of sound; considering projection, manipulation, frequencies & aerodynamics. Endless interpretations of contour and silhouette lend themselves to fashion design. ...Combined with fragmentation should assist me in developing a unique conceptual output.