Jo Cope : Awareness of Movement

Throughout this process I am also keen to explore conceptual design within Fashion. Alongside studying various techniques, media and the arts, I should collate a more rounded base to take me into the design stage.

Jo Cope:
I was aware of Jo Cope's work from recently being shown a short film 'Adam's Rib', portraying her study of performance & moving image. The theories behind Cope's approach to design intrigue me. A common focal point on performer-garment-movement takes the creations into a more conceptual field. Focusing on function & theory links to my ideas of considering & depicting the breakdown of a concept, plus the processes involved.

 

 The image above, and the 2 to follow, show clips of Jo Cope's work from the Adam's Rib project. There's a great sense of awareness of surrounding space & movement, that is not only captured in the performances but in the garments too.

 

 

 View Adam's Rib and more studies at http://www.jocope.com

 

Jo Cope for Nike78 project 2010 - Fashion is a competitive sport

Sub-Cut Workshop

Working to a 1/4 scale ratio of a size 12 mannequin, for speed and ease, we took part in a Subtraction Cutting workshop. The photo's & notes below document our work:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Experimenting with this technique was a great example of other ways to approach pattern cutting. Less restrictions can result in more trial and error, recording your workings, to create the garment you have envisioned, but on the other hand it can devise an unplanned silhouette through a more organic approach.

Subtraction Cutting

As part of this module we will be given an insight into many unique & contemporary design methods, expanding our awareness beyond traditional pattern cutting & construction. Last week it was an introduction to subtraction cutting, the pioneering technique of the UK designer Julian Roberts. He doesn't just design specific styles or collections, Mr Roberts presents the complete process of a concept.

Subtraction Cutting generates such complex silhouettes with such little effort, it's stunning! Allowing the fabric to dramatically twist, pull, gather and drape through a set of simple steps.

The image above is a still from a visit Julian Roberts made to Liverpool University in 2009, which depicts the process very well in one image. Below is a well composed stream of Julian at work:

Julian Roberts - Watch more Videos at Vodpod.

Art of Substance and Absence

Eager to draw on as many different art sources outside fashion as possible I remembered the work of an artist by the name of Alwar Balasubramanaiam, a trained printer, painter & sculptor of Indian descent. Although I am not personally too keen on many of his exhibits I am intrigued by the general inspiration behind his work. What is reality? Is there something beyond what we actually sense? Through physical pieces he challenges & disorientates the mind of the viewer.

 

Alwar Balasubramaniam's sculpture plays with time, shape, shadow, and perspective: four tricky sensations that can reveal, or conceal, what's really out there!?

 

Emerging Angels; Exhibited at the Church of Saints Peter & Paul, Singapore 2006. The sculptures were encased in a material mimicking marble that evaporated once exposed to air, so the forms were gradually revealed as the exhibition progressed. Thus creating the illusion that the angel sculptures have naturally evolved and taken on a form echoing their surroundings.

I would like to take on these ideals within design, considering illusion/ reality, surrounding & negative space and portraying the evolution of concept.

Naive Doodles

On the journey back from the Barbican I doodled a series of (very) spontaneous concepts. Before I could be influenced by any forthcoming workshops or research, the idea was to see what came to mind using little cutting & sewing to manipulate a style. Only a couple have been posted here but worth recording.

 

Augmented again!

http://blog.augmentedexperience.com/?tag=mobileaugmentedreality

This link above clarifies my thoughts that AR technology is probably more of a vehicle to promote or visually narrate the idea behind a concept rather than lending itself to the actual construction of a concept/ design. May be able to incorporate somehow, we'll see.

Starting Point : Japan

The 30 years of Japanese Fashion, Future Beauty Installation at the Barbican, London, was the perfect place for us to kick-start our research and inspiration. The Japanese Fashion scene has been a leader in innovation for decades, with their enthusiasm to embrace culture, technology, architecture and media clear to see.

(exhibition photography supplied by the Barbican website, freehand sketches taken from my notes)
http://www.barbican.org.uk/artgallery/event-detail.asp?ID=10771

The architectural methodology and functionality of the work displayed is amazing. Not only is the ingenuity of the pattern & cutting work worth drawing ideas from but the fabrics used too; from stiff wool felts, sports performance textiles and even paper!

The stand out designers for me were Hiroaki Ohya, Rei Kowakuba with his strong futuristic silhouettes, and Akira Naka. Naka's use of gradation knit, from wool to polyester knit, was genius.... love it. (check out the link)
http://www.bfc-review.jp/news/2009/07/akira_naka_exhibition.html

Augmented Reality (POP)

When given the brief the 1st thing that came to mind was an article I read not so long ago in POP magazine (issue 22, s/s); on Augmented Reality. With the rapid growth of digital technology, most noticeably in 3D development, the way we perceive everything is being challenged. As the editor's letter suggests such advances are being embraced and the Fashion Industry is no exception.

If you've got a video cam you've got to try this out!! (checkout the link below, and get your hands on a hard copy of the edition).http://thepop.com/ar/

The video's below help explain the concept and it's initial possibilities.



http://www.viceland.com/fashion/2010/02/london-fashion-week-augmented-reality/#more-6873





.... My problem here is that although it blows me away I need to consider and investigate how AR can be used within my conceptual fashion design work?!..... Hummm...?

Invitation for Innovation

Welcome to 'Concept Dean', stemming from the study of Fashion Design this space will present my exploration of interaction & innovation within society and science.

This blog has been constructed as part of a BCU Fashion BA brief. The compilation of posts will show my journey from inspiration, research through to conceptual design.

Enjoy; comment and question as you wish!